Rome to Bari, A Coast to Coast Adventure

A Roman Rest Day

I was tempted by Daniele’s offer of joining him on a 10K run around Rome, but I decided it was best not to overdo it and have a lie-in — a rarity nowadays — so I laid in. Had a nice breakfast that Daniele had left out for me. I’m now really into biscuits and jam.

I then set off for Rome and headed straight for the Colosseum. From there, I just walked and walked around the city, seeing quite a few of the sights but also just taking in the city at face value. I had some suppli (essentially arancini, but that’s what they call it in Rome) and a few pints in various places, including one overlooking the River Tiber.

I headed back to Bar Castillo, where I’d been before, and sat on the benches waiting for someone to talk to me. It didn’t take long — I chatted with a guy called Sonny and later on, Daniele came into the city. We met up, had a beer, got to know each other better and talked about previous travels and my current journey. After some pizza in town, we headed back to La Storta for the evening.

An Unexpected Incident by the Vatican, but a lovely ride with new companions.

After another chill morning and another lovely breakfast, this time with Daniele, we agreed we were going to ride together for the day in the direction of Ostia. After a short time on the road, we joined the cycle path that runs down to the River Tiber and goes all the way through Rome.

All was going very smoothly until we reached the area near the Vatican. Daniele was just slightly ahead when I noticed a man in front of a young girl. He seemed to be swerving, and all of a sudden he put his hand up against the wall. I could tell something wasn’t right. I got off my bike and approached — it was clear he was having some sort of fit. I instantly raised the alarm, but he fell to the floor and started having an epileptic seizure.

Daniele took the young girl away from the scene, and another couple started doing chest compressions. I’m pretty sure he may have died, but eventually, he came to. Luckily, being in the middle of Rome meant that medics and police arrived quickly, and it seemed he received attention just in time. It was quite a scary experience. Once things had settled, I could really feel the adrenaline — I was a little shaky. I really hope he got the best attention and that the people involved were able to save his life. After this unexpected event, Daniele and I cycled off at a much slower pace and started to collect our thoughts.

Soon after, we were out of the city. I'm glad the event happened where it did because quite quickly after leaving the Vatican, it becomes countryside. We peddled along a really nice bike path toward Ostia. Daniele checked directions with some people having a break, and they advised us not to take the road but to stick to a gravel cycle path. We ended up with two new additions — Alessandro and Pietro, recently graduated architecture students from Rome headed to Ostia for their first sea dip of the year.

We arrived in a place called Fiumicino and decided to have lunch at a seafood restaurant. I had fish and chips — and I can report they are not as good as in the UK (but did we expect anything less?).

After lunch, Daniele was set to head back home, so we said farewell. It was really nice to stay with him, and I’m glad we got to spend some quality time together.

I stayed with Alessandro and Pietro and we made our way to the beach. I got my first view of the Mediterranean and had a dunk in the sea. Got some more recommendations for the route from here to Bari, had iced tea and a coffee, and then cycled over to Ostia where we said our goodbyes.

They headed for the train back to Rome, and I rode down the cycle path along the beachfront, spent some more time chilling on the beach, grabbed food, found a camp spot, and crashed after quite an eventful day.

145K Coastal Push to Formia

Today’s route followed the coast. I could have split it over two days or attempted it in one go to stay with Letizia in Formia — someone Daniele recommended. I made good progress, and after a coffee in Lido di Latina and a lovely beach stop in Sabaudia, I decided to push on.

Eventually, I made it to Formia. A big day — 145K — but not many inclines, so manageable. I arrived at Letizia’s windsurfing shack, pitched my tent, and made dinner as the sun set.

A Rest Day by the Beach

My day off in Formia started with a cycle to a bike shop for new brake pads. They kindly fitted them and tightened my brake discs too — really helpful guys, and I had a coffee with them as well. Got some food and headed to the beach for a proper relax, hopping in and out of the sea.

To Capua and Kindness in Caiazzo

Slept on the beach, so had a dip in the morning — lovely — then got going. Mostly main roads through to Capua, where I took my first break. Really nice old Roman town; Emperor Claudius built the Appian Way from Rome to Capua.

Then I headed for Caiazzo. It was around 32°C by then, so I stopped at a bar for a coffee and a Magnum. I got chatting to the locals and ended up staying for two hours. Mainly talked with Adriano, the bar owner, who gave me free pizza there and another to go — he claimed it had the best tomatoes in all of Italy, they were super tasty!

Later, as I reached the top of a hill, someone spotted me and congratulated me. We got chatting, and he offered me some eggs. I asked if I could camp on his land so I didn’t have to transport eggs downhill, and he gave an enthusiastic yes.

That evening, I met his wife and daughter Simona. She made me cheese and omelette sandwiches for dinner, so no cooking needed — which was really appreciated. Before bed, they mentioned there are wild boars in the area, so I moved my tent near the chicken coop. Sure enough, a piglet came right by my tent. I wasn’t too scared — more curious. After some research, I found it’s like bears in Canada: store food sealed and elevated. As I got out of the tent to sort this, they all scarpered — definitely more scared of us than we are of them. Glad I got an encounter with Wild Boars but didn't meet the same end as Shakira (She didn't die but I think they robbed her purse😂)

Into the Hills and a Badger Sighting

The next morning I had breakfast with Simona, her mum, and a couple of friends — quick coffee and then I set off. After 50K, I was in Benevento and stopped in the park to refill water and chill. Picked up some much-needed gaffer tape for tent and fork repairs.

Afterwards, the landscape became more agricultural and isolated. At the 75K mark I stopped at a petrol station café, had a coffee, and chatted with locals for a couple of hours. Then I set off up the rolling hills — which I quite enjoyed — until I reached a stunning view and took a break. The descent was perfect: gentle enough to relax and soak in the scenery. Set up camp and made dinner. Mid-munch, I saw a badger! Pretty sure it’s the first live one I’ve ever seen — usually it’s just roadkill.

Fields, Heat, and Google Translate

Great night’s sleep, though it was already 30°C by 8 AM. Did some DIY with my new favourite item — duct tape — and set off. The heat and wide-open farmland made it tough going. Around 1 PM I stopped, then set off again at 3 — the hottest time — but was rewarded with a long, gentle descent.

Eventually reached a town called Venosa. Stopped to get water and ended up chatting (via Google Translate) with an older man named Vincenzo. Amazing what Google Translate can do. After chatting, I rewarded myself with pizza and a beer.

The Final Day of Climbing to Spinnazola

I slept in an olive grove next to an archaeological park just outside Venosa. Tried to have a lie-in but by 8 AM it was already too hot, so I had a little mooch around Venosa, picked up supplies, and set off.

Not a huge day of cycling, but the heat in Puglia is intense. I reached Spinazzola and chilled there. Chatted to locals — most seemed to be enjoying €1 Peronis from a vending machine. After that, I descended out of town only to find a roadblock, managed to get around it, but a surprise closure mid-descent is never great.

The rest was mostly gravel and overgrown tracks. I passed some fields scorched by fire — not surprising given how dry it is. Eventually, I realised I’d done the last climbing in Western Europe. Just a final descent into Trani and then along the coast to Bari.

The Milky Way, Trani, and “Too Good to Go”

Last night’s sky was incredible — dark enough to see the Milky Way. Easy morning rolling into Trani. Had a beer at the harbour and visited the cathedral right on the seafront. Tried the beach, but it was packed, so moved to a pebble beach instead.

In the evening, I picked up a “Too Good To Go” (six slices of pizza), so no need to cook. I stayed in Trani until sunset and then headed just outside to camp in another olive grove.

The Final Roll to Bari

Another chill start to another chill day. Rode down the coast to Bari — the final destination in the European leg. Stopped for a beer in Giovinazzo by a beautiful little dock, then rolled into Bari.

Picked up another “Too Good To Go” — this time two sandwiches and two desserts — for a welcome late breakfast. The rest of the day I spent by the water until it was time to head out the city to find, you guessed it another olive grove. Annoyingly on the way out my rear tyre deflated so had a bit of a frustrating time replacing that tube which made my arrival at my last spot for this leg a little more difficult with it being almost dark.

Matteo and Mia Madre

I left my spot pretty early to get back into Bari for the day, I settled by the water and had a quick morning nap. As I was going to pick up some more end of the line food I met a fellow bike Matteo having breakfast on the seafront. We chatted for ages about the trials and tribulations of bike touring then headed off together to pick up my food and have an impromptu tour round Bari centre. Around 2pm Matteo set off north, it was really nice to hang out for a few hours and I wish we were headed the same way!

Now it was time to check in to an apartment and the best shower of my life awaited! After doing some jobs I headed out to go pick up a hire car and suprise Mum at the airport. Mums flight was delayed which worked perfectly for my plan and I managed to keep it secret that I'd be waiting at arrivals!

We just chilled in Bari that evening and went to a restaurant recommended by Giuseppe a local I had chatted to after he had asked about the efficiency of my solar panel.

Day off cruising round Puglia

We set off early doors and drove out of Bari towards the Trulli villages in Alberobello. It was really nice to get there early and just about to see the village before the other tourists. After a good time here we headed for ostuni, a really lovely whitewashed town and had a walk around and some lunch. After this we headed just outside of a Ostuni to see some really old olive trees this place claims to have trees that are 2 to 3,000 years old. I'm not sure the ones we stood next to were that old but they were massive and had to be propped up by bricks. Then after this we drove in the direction of Bari, with a stop off at Polignano a Mare, a quick dip in the rather rocky bay and a drink overlooking the gorge. Then we headed back to drop off the car and it was then time for me to head to Bari ferryport for the ferry to Dürres, not before another quick bite, a beer and goodbye.

Side note: Fiat Panda/Puntos

How bloody cool, James May is right.