Into the Alpes: Birds, Glacial Dips, and the Big Climb

Leaving Zurich — Buzzards, Vineyards, and Friendly Faces

Rolling out of a busy Zurich, I cycled along the north side of the river, weaving through vineyards with the city slowly disappearing behind me. While distracted by a buzzard flying low overhead, I met Ben, a local cyclist who stopped for a quick chat. He agreed that the San Bernardino Pass was a solid route choice and shared a few helpful recommendations for the roads ahead.

We cycled together for a while until he peeled off toward the gym — a brief but enriching encounter.

At the end of Zürichsee, the landscape opened up dramatically. Snowy alpine peaks came into view, and the air felt fresher as I rode deeper into the glacial valley.

I met Janick, who was nearing the end of a 10-day ride across Switzerland, from Lake Geneva to Lake Constance. We stopped for a quick dip at the start of Wallensee, where the glacial waters were cold but incredibly refreshing.

After parting ways, I eased back into my own pace and headed toward Walenstadt, my destination for the day. I found a quiet lakeside spot to camp, but before I could properly settle in, thunder rolled in. I quickly pitched just the outer layer of my tent and took shelter as the storm passed.

Into the Alps — Wet Mornings and Swiss Beauty

It was a soggy start, the first wet day of the trip. Fully waterproofed, I packed up and pushed on, leaving Walensee behind. Despite the rain, the landscape continued to impress — Switzerland is picturesque at every single turn.

As the day wore on, the weather gradually improved, and I realised I’d rejoined the Rhine route, a nice bit of accidental continuity.

I criss-crossed either side of the river throughout the day. The goal was to get close to Thusis, the base of the San Bernardino Pass, so the mileage wasn’t too demanding.

Just as I started scouting for a spot to camp, I stumbled upon a quiet picnic area with running water — perfect for a wild camp. Bonus: my tent dried out completely.

A Rainy Day Off — Forced Pause

The weather forecast was grim on the day I planned to cross the Alps. After a bit of convincing from Demi, I decided to take a rain check (literally) and stay put. A slow morning in bed was a rare treat, a real change of pace from my usual early starts. By lunchtime, I ventured out on foot for a 10k round trip to Lidl for supplies — not quite a rest day, but close enough.

The Day of Ascent (and Decent)— Conquering the Pass

With clear skies at last, it was time to tackle the Alps.

I had about 15km of flat terrain to warm up, then hit the base of the climb. The mountain towered ahead — the first real elevation challenge since I began this journey, and I was curious to see how I'd fare.

The climb started with hairpin bends and tunnels, and while I won’t pretend I was fast, I kept moving. The road levelled out briefly before rising again toward Splügenpass, a lesser-used but beautiful alternative route into Italy.

At Hinterrhein, I paused and prepared myself for the main event. Although the pass was closed to cars, I saw a few cyclists and decided to give it a go. A short way into the ascent, I came across a group of Swiss-Italians eating out the back of their car. They were foraging wild mountain radish and kindly offered me a bun, a massive chunk of cheese, and as much fermented radish as I could eat. It was both delicious and energising, and the conversation was a welcome break from the grind.

After that, I pushed on — stopping occasionally to catch my breath — and eventually topped out at 2,068 metres around 2:15 p.m. I was completely alone at the summit, which made the moment even more magical, though a cold wind made sure I didn’t linger too long.

The descent into San Bernardino was incredible. After hours of climbing, it was such a thrill to release all that stored energy, flying through bends and feeling the life return to the valley below.

I could’ve kept going, but I spotted a pub under a massive waterfall and figured I couldn’t top that. A pint and a pizza felt like a perfectly deserved reward.

Afterwards, I cycled just a few more minutes and found a quiet wild camping spot, tucked off the main road. A big day behind me, the next stretch of the journey into Italy now beckons.

From San Bernardino to Lake Lugano — More Climbs, More Views

The next day, I set off with my sights set on somewhere around Lake Como. The big alpine climb was behind me, but another challenge lay ahead: Monte Ceneri. First, I had to complete the long descent from the Alps.

Monte Ceneri might have been a smaller climb on paper, but it arguably felt tougher. The heat was intense, there was more traffic, and unlike the alpine pass, this road had fewer switchbacks, which I’ve come to realise make climbing much more manageable.

Instead, it was more of a grind — long, straight stretches and a constant gradient. Eventually, I made it to the top, legs burning and sweat dripping. There, I met a group of Italians out for a day ride who were pretty impressed with the load I was carrying and the distance I’d come — their reactions gave me a nice little morale boost.

From there, it was another glorious downhill, this time into Lugano. I ditched the GPS and just followed the road that hugs the shoreline of Lake Lugano — a scenic, winding route with stunning water views. Eventually, I crossed a small bridge and stumbled upon a campsite right on the lake.