Into Switzerland: Along the Rhine and a Warm Welcome in Zurich

From Kehl to Kembs — Lizards, Laundry, and a Slower Pace

After reaching a campsite across the river from Strasbourg in Kehl, Germany, I began setting up my tent and got chatting with Dominic, a fellow cyclist who had pedalled across France from the west coast. We shared a couple of beers and swapped stories — recent routes, past tours, and what lay ahead for each of us. A great connection to mark the end of another stretch.

Leaving Strasbourg relatively early the next morning, I crossed back into France and followed the Canal Rhône au Rhin. It was a smooth, straight ride, and as I cruised along, lizards and snakes darted for cover as my wheels approached — a welcome bit of wildlife to keep things interesting.

Once off the canal path, I followed country roads along the French side of the Rhine.

Unlike the German side, there's no continuous riverside cycle path here, so I wound my way through fields and quiet towns instead. My destination was a campsite in Kembs, and although the ride wasn’t particularly long, I felt a bit sluggish and rolled in around 5 p.m., having laboured through the distance.

Kembs turned out to be a practical stop: I did my first full laundry since East Barkwith and made myself a really nice salad for dinner.

A Kind Gesture and Onward to Basel

The next morning started with a surprise. A woman I’d spoken to briefly the night before had left a little package outside my tent — a banana, some tomatoes, and bottles of water. A beautiful, unexpected gesture that really lifted my spirits and set a positive tone for the day.

It was only an hour’s ride to Basel, where I caught a train to Zurich — I had plans to visit Nele and Constantin, two friends I hadn’t seen since our time together in Canada over eight years ago.

Reunion in Zurich — Lakeside Dips and Slow Mornings

I arrived in Zurich and made my way to Nele and Constantin’s place, where a lovely brunch was waiting. We dove into a long-overdue catch-up before heading out for a relaxed ride to a park on the Zürichsee (Lake Zurich), where we took a refreshing dip.

After cruising around a bit more, we headed back for drinks and dinner at their apartment — such a treat after so many solo evenings.

The next morning, the original plan was to get moving early, but time slipped by in the best way. By noon, after more chatting with Nele, I decided to stay another night. We wrapped up the day with pizza for dinner and plans for an early departure the following morning.

Huge thanks to Nele and Constantin — your warmth and hospitality were amazing. I’m so glad we could make it work to reconnect after all these years!