From Roetgen to Strasbourg: Swimming Pools, Riverside Camps, and a Country Crossing

Swimming Breaks and Squealing Brakes

I started early from my campsite just outside Roetgen, and only 18 km later — after a glorious downhill blast — I arrived at a massive, free outdoor swimming pool. I waited a bit for the day to warm up before diving in. It was the perfect refresh.

That descent turned out to be a fitting finale for my rear brake pads, which began squealing by the time I left the lake. So I pulled over, gave the bike a break, and swapped in new pads.

Back on the road, I tackled rolling hills and gravel paths. With the temperature pushing 28°C, I made frequent stops to soak my cap in streams, wearing it wet until it dried in an instant under the sun.

After passing Rheinbach, I decided to start looking for a place to camp. Just before Meckenheim, I ducked through an orchard and found a quiet spot on the edge of farmland — ideal for dozing in the sun and settling down for the night.

Meeting the Rhein

The next morning’s ride brought me closer to the Rhein and the cycle route I’d originally planned to follow. It was mostly downhill — a great start to the day — and seeing the Rhein filled me with joy. From here to Basel, it’s mostly flat.

I stopped at a café for an English breakfast tea — not the biggest tea drinker, but it hit the spot. Then it was a straight ride to Koblenz, where I had booked two nights at a campsite just southeast of town.

After setting up, I walked along the canal and stopped for a beer. Unfortunately, the pub only took cash, and I only had my phone. I apologised and said I’d come back tomorrow — they smiled and poured me one anyway. A free beer it was.

Back at the campsite, I met Juliette, who was staying in the other tent. As I ate dinner, she offered me a radler and we chatted whilst gooslings munched grass really close to up — a lovely end to the day.

Koblenz Rest day (Sort of)

This was meant to be a rest day, so I walked to the nearest train station to head into the city. No train showed up — my rose-tinted view of German transport took a hit. So, back I walked to the campsite and grabbed the bike instead.

Without the bags, the bike felt light and agile, and I cruised around Koblenz picking up a few things I needed. I ended the day at Freibad Koblenz-Oberwerth — only €5 for access to a huge outdoor pool and park. An ideal way to unwind. I also stopped off at the same pub as the day before and actually paid for my pint this time!

150K and a Beach Camp

Feeling refreshed, I aimed for a big mileage day. The first 100 km flew by, and by 1 p.m. I was enjoying a beach bar in Mainz. The next 50 km… not so breezy. The heat and maybe that white wine spritz slowed me down a bit.

I passed through Worms, an industrial town, and considered stopping. But I’d told myself (and friends) I was going to hit 150 km — so I pushed through. Eventually, I found a pebble beach along the Rhein to camp on. Mission accomplished.

Freibad Recovery and a Chance Encounter

Sleep wasn’t ideal — I couldn't find my pump in the dark so didn't inflate the air bed. Feeling a bit rough, I made a plan to hit another Freibad just 15 km away and not too far off route. A swim, a nap, and cold water bottles later, I was back on the road.

Around the 50 km mark, another cyclist rode up beside me and asked about my destination. We ended up riding together for the rest of the day. We stopped for a drink at a pub on the Rhein and chatted about travel and his upcoming ride in Albania — maybe our paths will cross again.

Thanks, Ralf — your company and support were much appreciated!

After parting ways, I left the trail and found a quiet spot by the river to cook a big dinner and settle in.

Into France and a Strasbourg Welcome

I had a great night’s sleep and felt fresh for the day. The goal: Strasbourg, or somewhere just beyond. The ride was easy and pleasant — before I knew it, I was in France. Borders here are so subtle, they’re less noticeable than UK county lines. The biggest clues were the architecture and a road sign warning of automatic rail crossings.

After hitting 50 km, I stopped for a riverside break and some brioche. Another 25 km later, I found a patisserie just when I needed one — a chocolate twist and a Coke never tasted so good.

Cycling into Strasbourg was a bit less idyllic — small French border towns meant more traffic lights and inconsistent cycle paths. That said, even cycling along the equivalent of an A-road had more bike-friendly space than you'd find in the UK.

I arrived in Strasbourg and made my way to Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, settling into a bustling street with a well-earned glass of wine beside the cathedral. A beautiful place to pause — and toast to the road ahead.