From Florence to Rome - Rolling Hills, Hot Springs, and the Eternal City

The decent to Florence

I set off from my campsite at the top of the mountain and descended nearly 1,000 metres in about 30 minutes. From there, it was flat all the way through Pistoia and Prato until I reached Florence. Much like in Milan, I walked my bike into the centre and found the Duomo. I settled in for two pints of Guinness and enjoyed some people-watching.

I continued to Piazza Michelangelo, which offers sweeping views over Florence, the capital of Tuscany. After exploring a few more panoramas and failing to find any accessible parks in the city, I cycled out, grabbed some veg from a roadside van, tackled an unexpected climb but had a double scoop of Tiramisu gelato at the top I eventually found a great camping spot by a river.

The Road to Siena

I set off from the river camp and aimed for Siena. The climbing was steady but not steep, and the endless rolling hills of Tuscany offered constant views over vineyards and olive groves. Siena itself was like a smaller, less touristy Florence — charming, quieter, and easy to explore on a bike. After some time there, I cycled out along flatter roads and rejoined the Via Francigena, eventually finding a peaceful camp spot in a field just off the trail.

Gravel Roads and Gladiator Views

A small issue with my tent pole delayed my start slightly, but I was soon back on the gravel path toward San Quirico d’Orcia — a town famously featured in Gladiator. I missed the iconic cypress-lined villa but grabbed a much-needed breakfast and continued. After a visit to Contignano, more climbing awaited, including gravel ascents that really tested the legs.

At Radicofani, I rested at the summit before beginning a tricky gravel descent. It was fun but brutal on the brakes, and the rocks eventually claimed my front tyre — my first flat of the trip after 2,500 km! A quick repair got me rolling again, but I was ready to call it a day soon after. I found a beautiful sunny spot on the edge of a farmer’s field and pitched up.

To the Healing Waters

After a solid breakfast, I made good progress, stopping in Elmo for a second round of snacks outside a mini-market. The hills were relentless, but finally, my destination came into view — Cascate del Mulino, a natural hot spring with 37°C water cascading into river pools. It was a dream. I stayed for a couple of hours, fully relaxed, then did a supply run and found another lovely camp spot tucked away off the road.

Double Lake Dip

This day was dedicated to water. I started off with a swim in Lake Bolsena, followed by a visit to Viterbo. From there, I plotted a route past another lake, which required a big climb but paid off with a long descent to Lake di Vico. Another dip, another chill. In the evening, I rolled into Ronciglione for pizza by the slice and a beer before finding a quiet tree farm to camp in.

Into the Orbit of Rome

A shorter day at just 50 km and noticeably easier climbs — I’m definitely adapting to the hills. A scenic stop in the mountain town of Campagnano di Roma, followed by a relaxed ride to La Storta where I stayed with Daniele, who I met through BeWelcome. He greeted me warmly before heading out to celebrate the end of term with colleagues by watching the Diamond League at the Olympic stadium.

With the apartment to myself, I caught up on laundry and enjoyed a long-overdue shower before heading into Rome for a whistle stop evening tour. I saw some of the city’s highlights and wrapped up the day with a call home and a beer at San Castillo Plaza — a well-earned welcome to the Eternal City.